Friday, July 6, 2007

Deep in non-thought


I had an e-mail from Becca today. She said I needed to stop multi-tasking my vacation and try doing nothing at all. The prospect of sitting in a chair doing nothing – no reading, no mental list-making, no planning of any sort - for the prescribed three hours feels at once luxurious and utterly impossible. Still, I’ll try anything so I drugged Celia with www.PlayhouseDisney.com. I elected to enforce mandatory nothingness by spending my 1 hour (3 is out of the question) of uninterrupted non-thought floating around the pool on a blow-up lounge thingy staring into the sky.

There was no one else around and I have to credit Becca, the exercise soon had my brain traipsing off in the oddest places. For a while I closed my eyes to just listen. I could hear the waterfall in the pool coming from what seemed like all directions as the sound ricocheted off the stone walls. I could faintly hear the sound of the Higglytown heroes song coming from my laptop. The distant sound of cars moving through town and an occasional dog bark carried on the late afternoon breeze. Birds, too numerous to name, chirped, called and cackled - even the roosters chimed in. Then I heard a much louder, raspy screech from above. I opened my eyes to see three vultures circling no more than 30 feet above me - so close I could see their red shriveled heads! I abandoned ship in a panic and took shelter under the waterfall. The birds circled two more times and then headed north. Apparently, non-thought looks a lot like dead to a Mexican vulture.

Thursday, July 5, 2007

Las cucarachas


I wouldn’t say I have gotten used to Todos Santos’ las cucarachas brigade but I have come to accept our mutual habitation at Casa Bentley. I don’t which is worse, having one of these mouse-sized insects in the same room with you or the prospect of smashing its ample guts with your shoe. When we first arrived, a cockroach joined me in the shower. If I were a better rock climber, I would have had a toe hold on the ceiling. But limited in my climbing abilities, I was forced to don my flip flops and crush the intruder under foot. The sensation is not something you’ll quickly forget. Since then I have found a compromise. When armed with a shoe that is not on my foot and therefore unable to transfer the nauseating crunch up my spine, I will take my best shot at rending the beast one-dimensional. Otherwise, I will throw things at it until it returns so some dark, dank roach hole.

I kept my cool when Celia pointed out the dead cockroach on the kitchen floor. And a good thing she did because it posed a serious tripping hazard! I calmly found a broom to sweep the carcass out of the kitchen. Where are workers now?” I thought. A moment later I had my answer… Before swiping the cock-tank into its mango grove afterlife, I took a good look at the 8 armored legs darting up into the air. I gave it a little nudge to see if I could look at its back. When the broom hit the red-brown exoskeleton the roach sprung to life. Even over my own screaming and the hilarity of the workmen, I thought I could hear the familiar chuckle of that roach joker, Tank, who so slyly lured me in. Still shivering out the hibee-gibees, I considered whether the workmen were in on it. Tank, the trained cockroach, maybe? No, Jamie, now you are just being silly. But I could still hear the men giggling in chorus and the most persistent laughter coming from behind the refrigerator.

Wednesday, July 4, 2007

Manuel labor

Bob is a little shorthanded right now. Jose, his main hombre, has been recently diagnosed with cancer at only 37. He is traveling back and forth to La Paz for treatment. In his absence, the fruit flies have staged a coup in the cocina. After a swatting disaster at breakfast that sent my corn flakes all a flutter, Celia and I decided to lend our idle hands to the effort.

We scoured the cocina to the amusement of the onlooking construction workers. Stereotypes aside, I think we were more productive in our 1-hour cleaning session than that entire construction crew has been in the past week. One of the guys does nothing at all. Another has spent 3 days staining 26 beams. They are however, highly attentive to me. Yesterday, I stood staring blankly at a coconut that defiantly refused to give up its meat. Jose-on-the-spot appeared out of nowhere with a machete. In another venue, it would have been a distressing sceen but in no time I was nibbling on the sweet flesh of the defeated coconut and Jose (whose real name is Enrique) was back to not working.

As I am putting the silverware away, I ask, “Celia, what’s the word for spoon?”
“Cucharra” shouts an eager voice from among the palms.

I’d say the workers are worth every peso.

Tuesday, July 3, 2007

The sweetest of days


Each morning begins the same way. Celia begins rubbing my back until she coaxes me awake. She knows I will never tell her to cease a backrub no matter how tired I am. I’ve been studying a book about teaching children Spanish. It is full of monologues meant for parents to deliver to their kids. The page entitled, “Levantarse” has the parent gently coaxing their sleeping child with, “Time to get up. The day is here. Good Morning, sleepy. It is time to get up.” It occurs to me that would rarely use these words in my home. Ed is up hours before me and Celia generally beats me out of bed. Why doesn’t the book offer a page for, “Va! No me gusta levantarse.” The monologue would be something like this: “Cut it out. Go away, Mama is [insert appropriate state: sleeping, hung-over, menstrual, hiding from the responsibility of adult life.] Go find your father.” Now, this is Spanish I could use.

But today I was coaxed out of bed by Celia’s gentle touch. We started the day on a quest for glue for a still half-baked shell project. I truly believe that shell art is the lowest form of crafting. It is perpetuated by mid-westerners vacationing in Florida with hot-glue guns in hand. Yet, if it will entertain Celia, I’m in. It is still cool in the streets of town. There is a school graduation going on in the community center and, for the first time, we see Federalis dressed in their black uniforms with AK47s strapped to their sides. The food stalls are starting to fill up with people – even the taco de cabeza vendor is busily serving up cow brain tacos to a perplexing crowd.

As I search the store signs for a papeleria, I see that we are approaching a candy store. If you’ve never been in a Mexican dulceria, it’s worth the border crossing. Sure, we have candy shops lining the thoroughfares of our major tourist destinations and gracing the halls of our fluorescently lit great malls of America but, to my knowledge the U.S. has nothing that rivals the copious dulcerias of Mexico. Stepping off the street into the dark of the store front, the scent makes my teeth ache. Inside the perfectly rectangular room are walls lined from floor to ceiling with every imaginable variation of sugar. Manipulated and hybridized with corn syrup, hydrogenated yadda and monosodium-such-and-such, the alchemists of all things sweet have produced a dizzying array of colors, textures, smells and shapes. Above our heads the ceiling is littered with eye-popping piñatas. Barney, Dora, and the usual suspects hover in the center of the room like empty pods awaiting the life force trapped out of reach in the plastic membranes below.

Little do they know the bittersweet fate stretched out before them. Suspended in a state of expectation, the hallowed out characters dream of the day they too are lowered into the hands of a life-giving human. They will at last be fulfilled – with enough sugar to feed a small non-Hispanic nation – only to be taken home to have their paper mache skulls bashed in by candy-crazed children wanting only to spill their new life upon the ground. I feel compelled to leap for their feet, tear them down one by one, pry open their hatches and fill them with marshmallows, gum drops, suckers and even the tamarind candies no gringo will eat. Brought to life with a jolt of glucose, I’ll shoo the pinatas from the confectionary cage toward their freedom. I am reaching my hand upward to gauge how far I would have to leap for the power ranger’s foot when Celia snaps me out of it. She’s standing on the sidewalk pointing at something and saying, “Come see, mama.” I step out of the store under the watchful eye of the shopkeeper. I glance back over my shoulder at a Dora eyeing a shelf of foamy circus peanuts with heartbreaking desperation. Just then the storekeeper steps in between Dora and I with a long stick tipped with a bent nail like something you might use to spear fish. It may have been that she intended to get a piñata down for me but something in her eyes and the way she gripped the weapon told me otherwise.

Multitasking

Even as I look forward to three more weeks in Todos Santos, I feel the time constraint growing ever tighter around my chest. There is so much that I want, no I need, from this time and I’m not sure I can fit it all in. Astoundingly, I find myself sitting on the park bench planning ways to multi-task my vacation objective. Study Spanish while Celia plays on the slide. Check e-mail while drying off from a swim. Buy Celia art supplies for distraction so I can prepare for my company planning session next week. Walk to beach for exercise and to gather shells for distracting art project. Whiten teeth while writing in journal. Even so, I can’t seem to find the time to conduct the mental spring cleaning that I so desperately need. When did introspection become such a freakin luxury? Maybe I’ll squeeze some in while I lather, rinse and repeat. I don’t usually repeat but, who knows, the extra time might yield a revelation. The meaning of life may be just a cream rise away.

Dodged a bullet

Celia and I were preparing a light Sunday lunch when she first let the bomb fall. “I wanna go home.” It hit me like shrapnel. It hadn’t occurred to me that she’d want to go home so soon. We are only 6 days in to a 27-day stay. My mind projected forward to 21 straight days of whining and tantrums – mine – if this wish persisted. Then, I remembered a fact that frequently escapes me – Celia is five. Sunday was our first day of doing very little – no shopping, no beach, no long walk. It was a beautiful but overcast day that allowed us to lie around the pool for hours comfortably. The inactivity must have festered into boredom – the most evil source of juvenile possession. I shook off the shell shock and reached into my metaphorical bag for the silver bullet – Vamos a la parque? The change of venue resulted in a change of heart. On the walk home in the dark Celia outlined the many options facing her for the Friday buying day to come.

Sunday, July 1, 2007

Roberts rules of Seashell collection.


Roberts rules of Seashell collection.

With each shell found issue an immediate ear piercing shrill to alert others to the new agenda item. Straight away put in a motion for conference. When the delegates are gathered submit the initial proposition, “Isn’t this the prettiest [whitest, shiniest, smallest, etc…] shell, mama?” All delegates must then second the proposition before moving on to the next agenda item. There are roughly 4.3 million agenda item on each 1 square mile of beach and each and everyone one must receive a unanimous decision. Kill me now!

The beach in Todos Santos is unlike any I have ever visited. It is as empty and pristine as the white sands of Vietnam and as picturesque as La Jolla shores. What sets it apart is its surf. An astoundingly calm ocean ripples in without a single white cap and then within 30 feet of shore great, angry tubes rise out of the water and slam down on the shoreline like the claw of a back hoe. They stagger their break from one set to the next by more then 20 feet making it life-threatening to dip ones feet for even a moment. Swimming is out of the question. Each year several people are swept off the beach just walking in the wet sand above the surf line. When I first read this, it seems more likely a product of tequila-enhanced beach strolling but not so. The ocean here is truly awe-inspiring.